Two-day HOHO

Day one of our two-day Hop-on Hop-off pass was pretty much just a ride around town to check out where the sites where in relation to our apartment. With the exception of the Appian Antica (oldest road in Rome) most were within a short bus ride or walking distance. Once back at the homestead, we’ll map out the next few days and see about local transportation so we have an idea of times and routes.

One of the unadvertised features of riding a HOHO in Rome is the real-life traffic experience. We were lucky enough to get the front seats on the second level of the bus that really gives you a good perspective of the road, traffic, pedestrians and anything else that may wander in front of the bus.

After a few moments it became quite obvious why this “experience” wasn’t listed in the brochure. I can’t believe the bus driver didn’t hit a single car, truck, pedestrian, moped or anything else in front of or to the side of the bus. From where we were sitting, it was very clear that the bus came to rest inches from the obstacle in front of it. Damn near soiled myself a couple of times!  Best just to look away at the hundreds of monuments, buildings, ambulances, and enjoy the morning. Amazing thing, not one car horn or yelling from a vehicle, this is just the way it’s done.

Rode the bus all day so tomorrow we’re going back on the bus to hit those sites too far to even think about walking. One thing about Rome, there’s always a parking spot! And if you wear stiletto heels, easy to reach the ground….

Day Two of our HOHO and our first stop is the Papal Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore. The construction of this basilica dates back to the 5^th century, ~431 AD, and is said to have been inspired through a vision of the Virgin Mary to Patrician John and Pope Liberius. Since then many alterations and modifications have been made and nothing much of the original footprint remains.

Today the church houses a celebrated relic known as the, “Holy Crib”. Under the high altar is a statue of Pope Pius IX kneeling before the crypt and the urn containing pieces of the crib that held the baby Jesus.

The church also has more than 15 confessionals lining the walls of the nave. I asked Collette if she wanted to stop and confess but she said church closes in 7 hours so not today.

Back on the bus and on to our second stop, the Catacombs of San Sebastian. Located on the Appia Antica, these catacombs as well as several others, served as final resting places for both Christian and pagans alike. The extensive underground tunnels cover more than 12 kilometers and contains thousands of burial sites dating back to the 2^nd and 3^rd century.

During the persecution period in Rome, 250AD, it was forbidden for Christians’ to worship God or saints within the city walls of Rome. So it was that Apostles Saint Peter and Saint Paul were venerated here since it was impossible to visit their tombs located within the city.

It’s amazing that in some cases frescoes, adornments, plaster reliefs and other architectural details within the tombs have been perfectly preserved, with minor discoloration, after 1700 years! Sorry, no photos were allowed.

Enough dead stuff, time to find a place to grab lunch and relax a bit. We’re heading back into the heart of touristville so getting prepared for the hordes of people clamoring aimlessly through the narrow streets. But first, a calm moment while we look at the Appian Way, the Queen of the long roads and one of Rome’s first major roads. The first section of this road was completed in 312 BC by Magistrate Appius Claudius Caecus for use by the military.

And it was used by the military. In 73 BC a slave revolt lead by an ex-gladiator named, “Spartacus” was put down by the Roman army in Apulia. Because these slaves had lost their right to life for revolting, 6,000 were crucified along 200 kilometers of the Appia Way, from Rome to Capua. It was again used by the military in 1944 when Germany held Allied forces from advancing, for four months, as they tried a flanking maneuver to take Rome.

Now to find our bus and make our way back to tourist central, Piazza di Venetia. Few parting pics…..