The Pyramids of Dashur and Saqqara

Yes, I’m well aware that I’m still late with the posts. Trying to catch up while touring is a bit difficult, but I’ll get there. This certainly isn’t like our normal adventures where we have downtime so we can talk about the places we’ve seen and what they mean. Here, we are literally running from site to site just to get it all in. So much to see.

I will tell you this, if you have ever wanted to visit Egypt but felt it was unsafe, or would be hassled by street vendors constantly, it is neither of those things. Especially if you have a private guide. Makes all the difference in the world. Not only do you get intimate, personal explanations of the sites, but someone that runs block for you on the streets. Egypt Tailor Made is my recommendation.

Me & The Misses in front of King Khafre Pyramid

Now on with the story. We visited the pyramids of Giza built by the three pharaohs Khufu, Khafre and Menkaure. Next stop was the Sphinx.  The Sphinx was a mythical creature with the body of a lion and the head of a human. It stands in front of the second pyramid, Khafre’s, and is a likeness of him as a lion guarding the causeway into his pyramid. Originally thought to have been built around 2500 BC, new data suggests that the actual date may be closer to 7000 BC. (This would be a bit of a conflicting since King Khafre ruled Egypt from around 2575 BC.) There is nothing inside the sphinx as it is a solid piece of limestone. However, there are several tunnels located under the Sphinx that were discovered in 2019.

The entry to the drying room

Sphinx, King Khafre Pyramid and causeway (light colored stone behind Sphinx)

The Sphinx was part of a funerary site that began with a mummification area where the body was allowed to dry for 70 days. The body would be treated with salt, sand and placed in the sun to remove moisture. Next would be the “prep” room where the important organs, stomach, liver, lungs, and intestines, were placed in marble jars, that were placed in a marble container, to be saved for the after-life. The brain was removed through the nose or a small opening made in the back of the head and discarded. The heart was left in place as it was believed to be the center of intelligence. (Think with your heart, not your head) These areas are located directly in front of the Sphinx and connected via a covered sandstone walkway. Behind the Sphinx is the final resting grounds for the king, the pyramid.

Granite walls in the entry of the drying room worn smooth by tourists

Precise cuts with no mortar or cement to bond the stones

View from the “prep” room at the causeway and pyramid

The Sphinx

Archaeologists today believe that there may have been a sphinx in front of each of the three pyramids and have begun excavations at the third pyramid in search of evidence of another sphinx. We picked up two original sphinx in the souk to bring home and place at the entrance of Warm Springs. At least the guy that sold them to us said they were original, and for $100 each they better be!  Dan & Barb: keep an eye out for a delivery to your PO Box.

Now that we’ve seen the Giza Plateau, off to the real pyramids located in Dashur & Saqqara. See, told you I’d get there! The Giza pyramids were actually later on in pyramidiology. We begin in Dashur where we find 5 pyramids in various states of erosion. First is the Black (mud) pyramid. Not much left, guess mud isn’t a good material for pyramids. Built by King Amenemhat sometime around 1860-1814 BC, the pyramid housed the deceased pharaoh and his queens (yes, plural). Excavated in 1892 by my French great, great-uncle, Jacques de Morgan, the Black Pyramid is one of five remaining pyramids of the original eleven in Dashur.

The Black Pyramid

Next was the Red Pyramid. Built in the fourth dynasty, around 2613 to 2494 BC. Known as the Red Pyramid due to the color of the limestone used in its construction, this was the third pyramid built by King Sneferu in his attempt to build the better mouse trap. This one actually worked although not at the same angle as the Great Pyramid. The Red Pyramid is a constant 43 degrees so it’s a bit squatty. It is believed that this pyramid is the first “smooth” sided pyramid that didn’t collapse.

The Red Pyramid

Going back still farther with Sneffy, is the Bent Pyramid. This pyramid is what happens when you plan a project and either run out of money or patience. It began as a smooth-sided pyramid with 54 degree sides, for about 165’, then for reasons unknown the angle was changed to 43 degrees to finish the build. That’s why it’s called “Bent”.

The Bent Pyramid

One of the cool things about this pyramid is that you can go inside and hike down below the base, then hike all the way to the King’s chamber at the top. All it takes is the ability to, once again, crawl on your toes and forearms for better than 30 minutes. Yes, we did it. Probably lost 20# of water in the process but pretty cool experience.

Finally, for our last pyramid hike, we enter the “Step Pyramid”, the real “qual program” for all future pyramids. The Step Pyramid of Djoser (no, not the guy in the Matrix) actually led to the smooth sided pyramids when Sneffy decided he could just fill-in those steps and make a cool looking, smooth sided pyramid. What could be easier!

This is Third Dynasty Egypt stuff, 2686 – 2613 BC and is the first use of limestone in pyramid building and it is the oldest man-made stone structure on Earth!

The Step Pyramid, you simply walk in, no climbing!

Original support beams with wood wedges (4500yrs old)

Sarcophagus at the bottom of the chamber

Entryway into the Step Pyramid

One last site to see here in Saqqara was the tomb of Mehu, Chief Justice and Vizier (Priest) for King Teti. What is significant here are the hieroglyphics depicting his, and his wife’s lives. This tomb is closed to the public but our guide, Sabry, was able to have the keeper unlock the door to allow us in, for a tip of about $2USD. More than worth the money! Some of these hieroglyphics, like glass blowers, are seen no where else in Egypt. Amazing. And the colors seemed so fresh and real, but no restoration has been made here. These depictions are almost exactly as they were when made over 4500 years ago!

Servants with offerings for Mehu

Mehu, the Man

False door in Mehu’s tomb. Where the soul enters to return to the body

Servants with more offerings to Mehu

Panorama of Mehu’s tomb

Tomorrow, we head out on a tour of Old Cairo, mosques and the souk (market). Only about 97F for a high tomorrow so nice and cool. And yes, it is a dry heat, very dry! Here’s a shot for my buddy Walt.  Walk like and Egyptian…