Roaming Rome – Back to walking

Hop-on Hop-off is fun but it does have its’ drawbacks, like getting stuck in traffic and not stopping when you want it to stop, so walking isn’t all that bad. Of course, walking has drawbacks as well, but it’s still one of the best ways to see Rome.

Today we’re going to a couple of popular sites, the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps, and squeeze in a couple of walk-bys, the Mausoleum of Augustus and Villa Medici, the French Academy. The walk-bys won’t include entry because of either renovations or exorbitant prices. The French Academy only allows visitors on reserved tours and then charges a “reservation” fee that is added to the admission price. Not sure if it’s worth the cost but we’ll never know.

We start at the Pantheon which is about 15 minutes from our apartment. Got up early to beat the crowds because this is one of the more popular sites and tends to get crowded, besides, it’s free so everyone comes here. Yes, there will be a test at the end so pay attention!

The original Pantheon was built by Marcus Agrippa, a general, a consul, statesman and architect, around 14AD. The exact purpose of the Pantheon is unknown but it is believed to have been built as a temple to worship pagan gods, and converted to a Christian church in 609AD.  The original building burnt to the ground in 80AD and was rebuilt in its’ current style by emperor Hadrian. Hadrian did not attach his name to the many buildings he commissioned. This is the reason why the Pantheon still has its’ original inscription, “M. AGRIPPA.L.F.COSTERTIUM.FECIT”, “Marcus Agrippa son of Lucius, having been consul three times made it”.

The Romans had mastered building with lighter materials, and the use of arches, which allowed them to build massive buildings and monuments. Using a mix of travertine, tufa, brick and mortar, they were able to build a dome over the rotunda that is ~142ft high at the oculus, and ~142ft in diameter. The Pantheon today remains the largest un-reinforced concrete dome in the world. It is one of the best-preserved buildings from ancient Rome.

Crowds began appearing so it was time to move on. Winding our way north-east towards the Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, glad the weather is cooperating with us. Todays’ forecast is a balmy 77F, possibly some rain so the humidity is off the charts. Damn glad I packed my sweaters for this Fall adventure, haven’t worn them since Iceland!

Not too many people here, you can still see some of the steps. During the height of the tourist season, the steps can be almost completely covered with people sitting and enjoying a gelato or taking a break from the heat, or from spending their money! The steps are located in Piazza di Spagna, an area in Rome that has some of the most expensive shops around. Cartier, Prada, Gucci, Bulgari and others have chosen this location for their flagship stores, some even have their own armed guards at the door. Naturally, Collette and I did a little shopping before moving on to the stairs. We bought gifts and had them sent to everyone who reads our blog. Watch for them in your mail, hopefully they won’t get lost.

So, can’t help myself, this is just too good. In 1717 a competition was held to design the steps. That’s right, a competition for steps! Apparently, there’s more to a step than we think. As a matter of fact, not one but two architects won the toss and designed what is known today as the “Spanish Steps”. 135 “steps” go from the piazza square to the Trinita dei Monti church located above. Now here is where it becomes perfectly clear, some say there are 136 steps but they are wrong. The bottom step is not a step at all, it is part of the drainage system for the piazza. Never mind the fact that you have to “step” up on it to get to the 135 steps, nope, it’s not a step. Now you know why there were 2 architects needed to design this complicated, engineering masterpiece!And why were the steps built, besides to get to the church? To celebrate the peace treaty between France and Spain, uh, I thought we were in Italy????? Time to go.

We found our way to Villa Medici which was not very impressive from the street. The facade of the building actually faces the gardens so most of what we saw was a flat wall with windows. We did go through the metal detector and enter the building but since we didn’t have a reserved tour, we were only able to walk up to the second floor where the restaurant is located. OK, good enough, back outside and over to the Mausoleum of Augustus.

We knew the mausoleum was closed due to renovations based on the reviews we read but we thought it would still be a good walk and we could possibly see some of the exterior. That was about it, fencing was around the complete area so we couldn’t look inside so all we have are a few exterior shots. The mausoleum was built by the emperor in 28BC so it’s understandable why renovations were needed. It does raise the question though about how much renovating do you do to ancient works? If something has been fully restored to its’ original condition, is it still original?  Still pondering that one.

That’s the day. Lots of walking, lots, saw a few sites and dodged most of the crowds. We did find time to enjoy our coffee and pastry during a break in the morning and since it’s late afternoon, we’re going to a nice restaurant in Campo di Fiori for a pizza and wine. Clouds are coming in so maybe a little rain, cooler temps and fewer crowds, anyway going to relax for the rest of the day. Tomorrow is a down day so we’re just going to catch up on sleep, laundry, emails and the blog. Remember, keep and eye out for those gifts from Cartier….

Now the test:

1. What is the height of the oculus in the Pantheon?
2. How many steps are in the Spanish Steps?
3. Why were the Spanish Steps built?
4. What is martinizing and why does it take 1hr?

Cheers.

Some closing pics and Collette demonstrating the correct way to drink from a fountain in Rome..