Out and About in Ljubljana

Now that we all know a little more about Slovenia, it’s time to explore Ljubljana. It’s another great day for walking, 75F for a high and 0% chance of rain. All good. So, on our way to Old Town. Our apartment is located along the Ljubljanica river that winds its way through the city. We’ll just follow it to Old Town and some of the cool sites. Before heading out, had to learn a couple of Slovenian phrases: hello – zdrava, thank you – hvala, the check please – racun prosim. Got it, now off touring.

First on our list is the Dragon Bridge. Legend has it that the Ljubljanica river was once guarded by a fierce dragon that prevented anyone from settling on its territory. Along came Jason, as in Jason & the Argonauts, and whamo, slays the dragon. Folks were so happy; they built Ljubljana and made the dragon it’s symbol. Local legend has it that when a virgin walks across the bridge, the dragons wag their tails. Well, that hasn’t happened for a long time, now has it!

Built in 1900, the Dragon Bridge was, at that time, one of the largest concrete structures of its kind. Originally called the, ‘Jubliee Bridge of the Emporer Franz Josef I’. The bridge was renamed in 1919 when the current bridge replaced an old wooden version.

Moving along to our second bridge of the day, we came to the Butcher’s Bridge. This is a foot bridge that connects the covered walkway arcade to the general market square across the river. It has become Ljubljana’s ‘Love Bridge’ where hundreds of lovers have bonded their love by placing a padlock on the bridge. Since Collette and I have been married for 41 years, we simply put a tie-wrap on one of the figurines. That should last long enough for our lives.

What trip would be complete without a visit to a cathedral? Yep, we had to check out St. Nicholas Cathedral just across from a donut shop. Well, as long as we were there, had to check out the donuts and coffee first. Besides, tourists are not allowed in until after 9:00am and the conclusion of mass.

Glad we made the stop. The donuts were a little different but really good, so was the coffee. What was also good was the two young lady’s working there spoke amazingly clear English. (We later found out that Slovenes learn ‘English As A Second Language’ in grammar school and have to also learn a third language in high school!)

Collette went with an original donut while I threw caution into the wind and ordered a salted caramel donut, plus two Americanos with cream. While eating our low cal donuts, one of the girls came out and asked if we were enjoying them. Rather curious. We said yes then she told us they were made with tofu. Collette turned a bit pale while I went into convulsions and the waitress started to call 112 (emergency in Ljubljana). Actually, they were really good. Not sure how they made these but they tasted great.

After admitting that tofu tasted good, I didn’t see the need to be absolved of my sins but we went inside the cathedral anyway. St. Nicholas Cathedral was built in the 18^th century on the site of a previous church. It is in classic Baroque style and is rather plain on the outside with the exception of two bronze doors. These doors were added in 1996 to commemorate the visit by Pope John Paul II with one door celebrating 1250 years of Slovene Christianity, and the second door showing six cardinals in a row with Christ laying at the bottom. At the bottom of door #1, there is a face. Legend has it if you rub the nose with your left hand, it brings good luck. If you use your right hand, well, you know what happens.

Inside the cathedral is a wonderful example of the Baroque architecture and decoration with lots of gold and white, and ornamental chandeliers. The ceilings are vividly painted with scenes from early Christianity creating a feeling of grandeur and richness.

Back out to continue our walk-about in Ljubljana. We’re going to cross the Ljubljanica river on the famous, Triple-Bridges bridge. The center bridge has been in place since the early 1800’s. This bridge replaced a wooden bridge that was built to connect north-eastern Europe to south-eastern Europe and the Balkans. In the early 1900’s it was determined that the bridge needed to be enlarged to accommodate the increased traffic. Enter the cities most renowned architect, Joze Plecnik.

Jo, decided that instead of replacing the existing bridge, he would add two other bridges to connect with this one, creating the triple bridges. Unique, to say the least. If you’re in Ljubljana, you would have a hard time not finding works by Jo pretty much everywhere you walk. He is considered to be the greatest Slovene architect. His works reflect his attraction to antiquities, yet he did not adhere to classical proportions. His works can be seen throughout Czech Republic, Austria, and Slovenia.

Time for lunch and a chance for us to try a national dish, dumplings. We found the best dumpling restaurant in town, Moji Struklji, or “The Dumpling House”. First, we must start with a glass of Slovenian wine, white for the Misses, red for me. Both were pretty good considering we recently spent a week tasting some of the best French wine. Next, the entrees. Collette had mushroom stew and a meat dumpling, while I had a sausage, lamb stew, and a raspberry dumpling (dessert). Yep, these can be sweet or savory, your choice.

Collette’s mushroom stew was really good, but I thought her dumpling was a bit bland. My lamb stew and sausage were nothing to write home about, but my dumpling was awesome. Great flavor and texture. So, when in Ljubljana, I’d recommend the savory struklji.

After lunch we caught a fun ride on a river cruise boat. For a mere 14EU apiece we got whole different perspective on the city. Looked like the boat could hold 50 or so people so the eight of us had room to stretch out. Collette and I snagged the front seats to get an unobstructed view. Very pleasant 45-minute ride and a good view of the city.

Finishing up the day, we toured Preseren Square with the bright pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, and statue of the man himself, France Preseren. France (the man, not the country) was a noted poet in the first half of the 19^th century, and is considered to be the greatest Slovenian poet. His poem, “Zdravljica” (I’m sure you’ve heard it) became the Slovenian national anthem.

Sorry these posts are taking longer than usual to post. The internet is just above dial-up rate and it really is slow. Maybe better in Croatia. Be there Sunday. Tomorrow we go to the castle and then find our way to one of the best burger spots in Ljubljana, Pop’s.

 

Se vidiva jutri!