Ostia Antica

Of all the places we planned to see while in Rome, Ostia Antica was #1 on my list. Having already seen the usual tourist sites, we were looking for those places where few tourists go, Ostia Antica is just that place.

Located approximately 15 miles outside of Rome are the ruins of Ostia Antica, a major ancient Roman port city. Ancient Rome had no direct access to the sea and had to rely on small ships to bring cargo up the Tiber and to the city. So they needed a port city that was convenient to transferring goods up the Tiber. Ostia was the perfect choice.

Ostia, pronounced “Oz-tee-ah”, comes from the Latin, “Os” which means “mouth”, and this is the location of the city, at the mouth of the Tiber river.

Today we took the bus to the Ostiense station, got on the Ostia tram and was there in no time. 15 miles outside of Rome and it was the easiest trip we’ve had since arriving. Plenty warm though, 79F, humid and very little shade. Still, had to do it.

It’s estimated that at its’ peak, Ostia had a population of about 100,000 inhabitants that performed all the usual tasks of a harbor town. Of course, moving goods from ships and transporting them to their final place was one of the key tasks, but there were also many supporting businesses, such as ship repair, and freight forwarding. Many of the trades had permanent shops located by the harbor where those needing the service could easily contract with the owners.

History has it that Ostia was founded in 620 BC by the 4^th king of Rome, Ancus Marcius, and was used up to the fall of Rome, around 4^th century AD. During the time of its use, Ostia was a major city with hundreds of homes, a Jewish synagogue, 18 temples to the Persian god, Mithra, public baths, taverns, inns, shops, and a huge Roman theatre. But as time went on and other seaports became more important, Ostia fell into decline. Soon it was abandoned and left for looters to take what they felt was valuable and the rest was buried in time.

Now, of all people, Benito Mussolini, that fascist shit from WW2, ordered the historic site to be excavated and preserved for the people of Rome to enjoy. They spent 3 years excavating the site and when it opened, Bennie renamed the town Ostia Antica to distinguish it from the current town of Ostia. Even jerks do something good once in a while.

This was a fabulous site! Visitors are allowed to walk freely among the ruins, look into or go into homes and shops, and to just wander around the remains of the town without guards, ropes or chains blocking your path. And you know what, the remains are still perfectly preserved. People have not destroyed the many mosaics, frescoes and carvings, they have appreciated them. Too bad more sites aren’t like this one, you really feel the history as well as see it.

This is why we had to come here, the Square of the Guilds. These mosaics, from as early as 600BC, are absolutely amazing. Before there were hanging signs advertising a business, there were mosaics on the ground just outside the businesses door. Ostia had many of these “signs” . Although some are hard to decipher, we made the attempt. Hope we came close!