In the Galapagos

Just a quick 2hr flight from Quito and we’re in one of the most amazing natural environments on earth, the Galapagos Islands. Man has pretty much screwed up every land mass they have landed on with few exceptions. The Galapagos are one of those exceptions. Yes, there are cities (very small) and evidence of human existence, but mostly these islands are void of signs of human intervention. Animals here are the owners, man is just visiting.

We landed on Baltra Island and took a short bus ride to the ferry, then an even shorter ferry ride to cross the channel between Baltra and Santa Cruz island, then a taxi to our hotel (about 40 minutes). The environment is heavy forest with some fields of very tall grass. We’re in the “wet” season so everything is very green and lush.

Welcome to the Galapagos

The channel between Baltra & Santa Cruz islands

Luggage ferry

We checked in to our hotel and was off exploring the island. We stayed mostly in the city and checked out the shops, restaurants, etc. Since it was getting late, an early end to our day was in order. Tomorrow we will trek off to Tortuga Bay to enjoy the 70+ degree water and do a little scouting for ocean iguanas, land tortoise, hammer-head sharks and lava tubes. There’s a bit to explore.

The locals (Part 1)

The locals (Part 2) Ocean Iguanas

The locals (Part 3)

Business opportunity on the main drag in Puerto Ayora

The Harbor

Had a good breakfast of eggs, granola, pancakes (called “pancakes” here on the island), juice, and prepared meats / cheeses. Good to go, so off to El Chato ranch (not El Chapo, he’s a drug kingpin). On this “ranch” there are about 40 land tortoise and several lava tubes for exploring. This tour, like most, requires a guide to escort you through the area, and to make sure no one violates the distance rules with all animals on the Galapagos, 6 feet away at all times.

Before heading out to see the giant land tortoise, we were required to change our shoes. We were given wellies, rain boots, in exchange for our street shoes. This is part of the ecological protection they use throughout the islands to ensure nothing foreign is introduced to native areas by visitors.

The tortoises are pretty much everywhere here on this ranch. They tend not to migrate far once they have found the necessities of life, grass, flowers, shade and water. Because these guys are cold-blooded mammals, they tend to overheat on top of their shells while chilling on the bottom. To help regulate this, they need to sleep in water that covers most of their bodies except their heads. This cools them down from a day of foraging in the tall grasses.

Male and female giant land tortoise

Tortoise on the run

Young tortoise (note the rings on the shell)

On average giant land tortoise eat around 15# of grass and flowers every day. They generally walk a few steps, lay down and eat all the grass that’s within reach with their head. Then they get up, walk a bit, lay down and repeat the process. That’s about the extent of their physical activity until mating season. We won’t get into those activities here.

Male tortoise can weigh as much as 500# when fully grown. Females are much smaller weighing in at 250#. Their shells have rectangular sections that have a series of rings inside them. As the tortoise gets older, these rings disappear so scientists can estimate their age by examining their shells for rings. Giant land tortoise can live to 200 years old!

Next on the agenda was exploring lava tubes. The lava tubes on this property are remnants from volcanic activity over a million years ago. Pretty cool walking inside one of these tubes knowing that at one time, there was molten rock flowing through. The interior of the tube is porous, rough volcanic rock that allows a bit of water to drip inside. The path was well lit and not a lot of puddles but enough that we were glad to have waterproof boots on.

Lava Momma

Wraps up the first four on the Galapagos. Our taxi driver waited for us while we did the tour so back into town we go. Total cost for taxi and tour was $70.00. Not bad considering the taxi took 35 minutes to get there from town, and it included the return trip.

Had a late lunch then explored a bit of the harbor area including the Charles Darwin Research Center. The research center is dedicated to identifying new species of flora & fauna and to protecting existing species here in Galapagos. Mostly a closed research facility with a small museum and several beach areas where you can see marine life and iguanas. Good cause and a good walk after lunch. The only downside was the torrential rain the came up just as we were leaving. Spent about 20 minutes under a nice tree shelter watching the road wash away. Doesn’t seem to bother the iguanas.  Back to town for an afternoon cocktail.

Runaway Tortoise?

Life is tough for an ocean iguana

Face only a mother could love

Tomorrow, we have a down day to catch up on things, but we plan to hike to Tortuga Beach (Turtle Beach) to check out the ocean iguanas and possibly see some sharks. Till then…