Drive trip to Predjama Castle and Postonja Cave.
Up and out this morning. We have an all day trip to see the only castle-in-a-cave in Europe, Predjama (pronounced, “pred yama”) Castle, and then onto one of the largest caves in Europe, Postonja (pronounced, “post tone ya”). Good day for driving, Sunday, lots of folks in church or sleeping in. Weather is about the same as it has been, mid-70’s, no rain, but coats are a must for the cave tour. The cave has a constant temp of around 50F and is a bit damp so a coat is recommended.
Using Google maps is always a challenge in Europe. It seems to get lost or can’t remember the right exit to take out of a round-about so patience is absolutely necessary. Collette does a great job of interpreting the directions so we only get lost occasionally. Today is no exception for our Google. Since we have all day to do these tours, we turned off the toll road option and elected to drive the country roads, fully expecting the trip to be more of an adventure. And it certainly was!
The settings on Google are supposed to be how to get from point A to point B using the most direct route, without toll roads. It always takes us on a winding journey through towns on every side street it can find just to pop back out on the main road 10-15 minutes later. No reason why. This time Google took us to another castle along the way to Prejama. Castle Otocec, we went right through their parking lot and across the Kodak Moment bridge where everyone was trying to get their souvenir photo. Fortunately, we weren’t alone, there were two other cars in our line, so everyone just stepped out of the way and let us pass. Never fails to raise questions about the algorithm Google uses for driving.
Within 1 hour we’re at Predjama Castle. There are only a few people here so touring should be easy. The castle is pretty amazing. It is built right into the opening of a natural cave half way up a 123-meter (404’) high cliff. This is one of the world’s most dramatic castles and appears to be unconquerable.
Predjama Grad
Exactly when the castle was started is uncertain, but the first mention of the castle was in 1274. The castle consists of five floors with an armory, dungeon, dining hall, living quarters, and other facilities. It is a good representation of life in the 16th century. It was built in Gothic style on a natural, protected site with only one side approachable, with difficulty.
Troughs were cut into the mountain side to channel water to a collector
The family bedroom. The only room heated by an external fireplace.
The fall back position, the cave. Protected by a drawbridge between the castle and the cave.
Inlaws quarters
Living / work room
Kitchen
Armory
Tools of the trade. The two balls with spikes are called a “Morning Star” and used to finish off those deemed fatally wounded
Knights room
Legend has it that the castle was used as a hideout for a 15th century Robin Hood named Erazem Jamski. He was a descendant of the Imperial Governor of Trieste who got a bit pissed when one of the Habsburgs dishonored his dead friend. Couldn’t let it go so he killed the commander of the Imperial army then fled to the castle. He gave the nearby towns people money from his other escapades, like raiding Trieste not once, but twice. In return, the towns people used hidden trails and tunnels to get food to Jamski.
Since the army couldn’t get him by attacking the castle, and waiting for him to die didn’t seem to be working, there was nothing left to do but bribe someone into betraying him. That worked. One day while on the throne, probably reading the Gothic Times, a cannonball came a visiting. So endeth the Robin Hood of Predjama.
The repaired throne room
Over the next centuries there were numerous owners who made improvements and additions to the basic castle. It remained privately owned until the formation of Yugoslavia when it was nationalized and turned into a museum. It remains a museum today.
Coat of Arms – Count Cobenzl
Coat of Arms – Prince Windisch-Graetz
Welcome cannon
It is an amazing castle with impressive views of the valley, Predjama. Price was right, around 40EUR for the castle walking tour with audio guide, and the guided tour of Postojna cave, which is next on our list.
Predjama from the castle
OK, all you spelunkers, get ready! We made the 10-kilometer (6.2 miles) drive to Postojna Cave just in time to get in line for our 1:00pm guided tour, along with close to 8-900 other people! The place was mobbed! We had to park in over flow lot #3 down the road a short 15-minute walk away. Guess all the church goers decided to see the cave along with bus loads of others. But, not to worry, they had a system to sort people by language, then by doorway so it really didn’t take long to get inside.
Once inside there is a small mining-like train you board for the long ride to the center. Collette was ecstatic, finally getting to ride a mini-train! The cave system we’re in is over 80,000 feet long (15+ miles!) so obviously one of the biggest in Europe. Tourists only get to see about 5 kilometers of the cave system but you get to see it on foot. Little did we know that the train dropped you off in the bowels of the cave and you get to experience walking out. Round trip takes about 1.5 hours. Well worth the price of admission!
The cave was formed millions of years ago by the Pivka River. There are stalagmites (grow from the bottom up), stalactites (grow from the top down), and curtains which are stalactites that resemble folded cloth. First discovered in the 17th century by Johann Von Valvasor with the discovery of graffiti dating back to 1213AD. In the 1800’s a new cave was accidentally discovered while preparing lighting for a visit be the Emperor of Austria.
Curtain stalactites
The Leaning Tower
Our guide was extremely knowledgeable and explained the various formations and animals living in the cave. Yep, there’s critters down here! Seems there is this one little guy called an,” Olm” who lives here, for hundreds of years! These salamanders have undeveloped eyes but increased sense of smell and hearing. They’ve been known to go for more than 7 years without eating! They are only 1 of the 100+ animals found in the cave. And for all you philatelist, there’s a post office located in the cave. Established in 1899 and still operating today. But why?
The Chamber – the post office is just off to the right.
All done with today’s adventure. Tomorrow, we head for Zagreb, Croatia, about a 3.5-hour drive so we’ll take our time. We plan to arrive in the city, find parking, and then do a little exploring (and lunch!).
Till then…