Cruising Wales (sounds like Jacque Cousteau)
Set the alarm this morning to start our day before daybreak. We have a long drive to Fishguard and St. Davids planned, about 3 hours 40 minutes one way. Really want to get home before dark so getting up early was our only option. Weather for today is forecast as warm 550, with 10% chance of rain, perfect for our drive.
Not a lot of traffic on the roads which is a good thing. These roads are, in my humble opinion, the curviest, twisting roads I’ve ever driven. The drive is 132 miles, back home that would be a little over 2 hours. Even though the speed limit on these country roads is 60mph, one would be a fool (or dead) to try and drive that fast. My average speed is around 40 miles per hour!
The first stop, Fishguard, a small coastal village that was subject to Norse raids during the Viking Era (793-1066AD). The town’s name is derived from the Old Norse, Fiskigarðr, meaning “fish catching enclosure”. Guess that explains the towns development into a herring fishery in the late 18th century.
February 1797, Fishguard was the site of the last invasion of mainland Britain. About 1,400 French soldiers landed on the 22nd with plans to capture the town. Two days later, 24 February 1797, it was over, the French surrendered. In honor of the Battle for Fishguard, a tapestry was created emulating the one in Bayeux, France. 178 volunteers painstakingly embroidered this 100’ long and 1.7’ wide tapestry that tells the story of how the last invasion was defeated.
We saw the Bayeux Tapestry while on our WW,Too tour a couple of years ago and thought it was absolutely amazing. Couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see this one.
The Last Invasion Tapestry
OK, not quite as elaborate as the Bayeux Tapestry but still, for a bunch of volunteers and only 4 years, pretty good work.
Only another 15 miles away is the oldest cathedral in Wales, St. Davids. Built in 1181AD, this cathedral is still in use today and although there have been many changes over the years, is amazing inside. The cathedral is an excellent example of Transitional Norman architecture, most commonly referred to as “Romanesque” but with variations developed by the Normans, such as a tympanum under the arches with carved mouldings.
St. Davids Cathedral
The architectural style of St. Davids is a typical cruciform with a deep chancel, a cross tower in the center, and a long nave at the entrance. The cathedral contains numerous crypts, an elaborate rood screen between the nave and chancel, and a Bishops Throne.
The ceilings were renovated in 1500’s with Welsh oak
The Chancel
The Bishop’s Throne
Modified groin vaulted ceiling
Nave and rood screen
Cathedral wheel window
Outside the cathedral are the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace. Construction was started in the 13th century for Bishop Thomas Bek, and completed by Bishop Grower around 1328. In 1536, Bishop William Barlow stripped the lead from the roof and sold it. (The big use for lead in the 1500’s was for make-up paint; it gave that “white face” look everyone craved. Problem was, it also poisoned you.) This resulted in the building falling into disrepair. And as they say, the rest is history.
Bishop’s Palace
Done with our touring for today. Mom-bear made another great picnic lunch so we’ll have that before starting the long drive home. Should make this trip in daylight so not as exciting as yesterdays drive, which is a good thing!