Day Trippin in Dijon
We decided to take a day off from wine tasting (still doin the wine drinking thing) and check out the mustard store in Dijon. Why yes, there is (are) a mustard store (s) in Dijon. However, mustard may be made here but it’s not from French mustard seed. Hang on, I know, WHAT! Yep, looks like many years ago the Dijon mustard appellation didn’t get certified so anyone anywhere can make Dijon mustard, as long as they follow the recipe.
So here we are in Dijon getting ready to taste some mustards and another punch to the gut. They use Canadian mustard seed to make Dijon mustard in Dijon!!! Somehow in this crazy world, the Canadian’s convinced the French to import mustard seed instead of growing their own. Well, so be it.
No better place to taste mustard than at Moutarde Maille right here in Dijon. This store first opened in 1845 and is the original Dijon mustard store. Mustard jars line the walls in a wide assortment of flavors. Yes, it’s not like the kind that grandma used to make when you were a kid. Now it’s vogue, hip, stylish, cool. People everywhere are having mustard socials, mustard shindigs, and mustard mingles. What do you bring to such roaring occasions? How about one of these: Dijon mustard with white wine and currants; white wine, parmesan, and basil; rosemary and honey; dried tomato and pepper; fig and coriander; truffles; honey and walnuts; pesto and arugula; Dijon and whiskey (Ugh!), or just plain old Dijon mustard.
Decisions, decisions.
Just like a soda fountain except with mustard.
We tried more than we should have before buying a custom poured jar of rosemary / honey Dijon. Custom poured means it came straight from the barrel into a souvenir jar that comes with discounted refills. I almost hate to say this but it cost 33.00EUR, that’s a cool $35.00USD for a small jar of mustard. Hey, it’s part of the adventure.
Custom mustard
After the mustard experience, we decided to check out the tower of Philippe le Bon (Philippe the Good). Towering 150’ over the Palace of the Dukes, this 15th century marvel provides the best views of the city. Work started on this landmark in 1450 and was competed 10 years later in 1460. The tower was not built for protection or as a look-out for invaders, but as a show of prestige and wealth. (Much like the towers built in San Gimignano, Italy) Our assault on the tower will take place at 4:30pm so we have time for a snack and to carry our precious mustard back to the apartment.
Tickets for the tower climb are sold in the I Store located just around the corner from the tower. The ticket includes a guided commentary on the history of the tower along while you ascend the 316 steps to the top. Good deal.
Detailed carvings along the stairway.
Carving of the two types of grapes in Dijon in 1450AD, gamay and pinot.
Carving of the architect along with two stone masons.
Made it to the top with no issues, rather an easy climb. Our guide was very good and described several artifacts and significant markings along the way up. Such as several carvings of animals, plants, and a special one dedicated to the architect and stone masons, in the corners of the upper staircase. Once at the top, what a great view of Dijon. It was a bit cloudy but not raining so the light was good and the temp was cool, just perfect for a short climb up a narrow, winding staircase. If you’re in Dijon, we recommend this climb.
St. Martin church from the tower.
Palace of the Dukes plaza.
Beautiful glazed tile roof.
Dijon
Gargoyle on top of the tower.
Now what about tomorrow? Back to wine tasting or more touring? Probably need to do a little more touring and give the wine tasting another day. As we work our way south from Dijon, our next stop will be Beaune (pronounced, “Bown”) but we will also take in one of the areas most unusual wineries, Chateau Savigny-les-Beaune (pronounced, “Sauve in knee -less -Bown). Not only does this winery produce amazing wines, it is also home to a rather larger automobile museum, tractor museum, aerospace museum, and fighter aircraft museum. I guess there’s a bit of money to be made in wine.
Passe une bonne soirée.